Looking for patterns (and fabric suggestion)

Does anyone know a good place to find free shirt patterns, or have some I can borrow?

I want to make slightly more fitted, puffy sleeved shirt with my own collar design, and while I'm capable of faking it as I have in the past, I'd planned on using some higher quality fabric this time around so I'd like to have something to refer to for the finer points.

On a related topic, I don't know fabric very well, so is there a particular one anyone would suggest for my needs? The shirt will be a dark color (likely black), and is intended for fall/winter wear, either alone or under a bodice/armor. I'd like it to have some stretchy qualities so i can cut it to be fitted and still move easily, instead of the loose fit required when working with something like muslin that has no give. Vince and a few other people have garments made out of a stretchy velvety material i rather like, but I'm afraid it will be too warm when the temperature is much above 40-50 - not to mention it looks pricy. If the cost of the materials is such that I could probably just buy a ready-made one... well then, i might as well buy a ready-made one .

Washability is probably pretty important too...

I may have a few patterns you can borrow i'll check. As for fabric suggestions, sense its for the winter id stay  a way from that  velvety material it is most likely 100% polyester and thats a no go sense you will be running around in it. Polyester, while it my be cheap and stretchy, isn't a breathable fabric so having it as the layer that touches your skin will create problems with hypothermia a some point.

I suggest going with a majority cotton or wool blend with nylon, elastic or Lycra to give you the stretch you want. A worsted or tropical wool would be the best choice sense it is a lighter weight fabric and it will wick away moisture from your skin keeping you warm and dry.

I hope that helps if you have any other fabric questions, I can try my best.

Cotton is a No-No in the winter, as it looses all insulation properties as soon as it gets wet - from snow, or from sweat.

Wool, or a wool blend, is the way to go.  You can wash it with Woolite.

Silk is best, if you can get it and it's affordable.

For movement - look at adding a Gusset (folding pocket) to the armpits, under the sleeve.  This is basically extra fabric that lets the sleeve move more, so you don't need to worry about stretching.

OTOH, while Geoff is correct, I find silk next to my skin with a layer of wool can be then covered with cotton.  The wool will keep one warm, while the silk wicks the moisture from the body.  Worked for me while reffing in miserable November weather.

I have to agree with Charlie - if you find a cotton you like is should be fine as the over layer as long as when its cold you've got something that wisks away moisture closest to the body underneath it - be it a silk, wool, or other such fabric.  I can't imagine many people don't layer with thermals when it gets into the coldest parts of winter, and since you want to make a nice shirt, picking a mid-weight or lighter fabric that will be good even in summer sounds like the most bang for your time and money. 

  Somehow a fitted shirt doesn't fit in with 1209 in my brain...but then my brain is known to be different, and I obviously don't quite understand what you mean by "fitted"    If you would, this humble Seamstress suggests you consider making a vest (I shy away from the period word "bodice" b/c of the boning it implies and the difficulty constructing one properly)  but a vest with grommets on the sides for adjustability could give you lots of flexibility as to fit, and layering options underneath to suit the weather, from a silk/microfiber tank for warm weather, to whatever additional, warmer layers you need for cold.  It also gives you a lot more options for fabric; you could even make it reversible for alternate characters.  And there are washable, 100% cotton velvets -- they tend to be on the heavy side however (think of floor-to-ceiling drapes in Buckingham Palace...).  A vest can even have detachable sleeves!
  I dig through the discontinued bins at fabric stores for patterns; there are also some great sites on-line that tell you what measurements you need, etc.
  Send me a PM, or come to the OOG event at my house Sept 5 and we can talk (PS--I am an active participant in the "whoever dies with the most fabric wins" contest so I can show you ideas, etc.)